Help with Ground Cover for Slopped, Rocky, Compacted Soil in Full Shade

ashleycook38's picture

Hello all! I'm relatively new to gardening and have moved into a new house with some landscaping challenges. The one that I'm focused on right now is planting an area adjacent to my driveway that is sloped, in full shade and has been "mulched" with river rock for years. I've attached a couple of photos to this post because my planting site here cannot be adequately described in words.

Basically, I'm not thrilled with the "rock" look. I would like to plant this area with ground cover, preferrably a flowering perennial. The challenges that I have are the following:

1) How do I prepare the soil? It is heavily compacted and I am nervous about doing any heavy tilling that may disrupt the growth of the trees. Is there any way that I can work with the rocks that are there? I've already removed rock from other areas of the yard and they will be difficult to remove.  Would it be possible to mulch heavily this summer with a mixture of compost/topsoil/shredded mulch and plant next season when the mulch has decomposed somewhat into a coverlet of soil-like consistency?

2) What plants do you all recommend (and in what arrangement) that will cover quickly and can grow well and relatively unattended in these conditions? I'd like to see this area covered as quickly as possible (i.e., within one or two seasons of planting). I am in Zone 7: Central Virginia

3) Based on the answers to the above questions, what steps would you take (this summer, this fall, early spring) to see this project through?

4) Where can I go for more information on this type of thing? I've already read through most of the resources available on this site. Is there anything else that you'd recommend?

Thanks in advance for all of your help! I'm new to this and am really looking forward to any input that you all could provide!

Ashley.

Noel-in-England's picture

Ground Cover in Dry Shade (post #17321, reply #1 of 7)

The soil ; - o.k. Bone dry , hard & with roots in of trees you want to keep.    We don't have a lot of choice here  - but is

Herbaceous:-

Bugle (Ajuga ) Ladys Mantle ( Alchemilla mollis) Elephants Ears (Bergenia ) Lungwort (Pulmonaria)Deadnettle (Lamium )

Shrubs - Holly (Ilex)  ,  Berberis,  Cotoneaster, Sumach - The Stag's Horn .( Rhus tyhina )  & R.t "Laciniata ' 

The plants will never be big bouncing ' frum' examples - so you can try placing them at about HALF the distance that the books say  they spread - and see what happens.

 

Everything will benefit from an inital layer of moist Mulch  / Well -rotten manure thrown -of top to a max. 6 inches. Then leave THAT for 6 months PRIOR to attempting to plant.   Plant th wesame things in groups and clumps to crate a micro-climate. 

Do only "Mist" watering - a "Stream" will cause erosion / run-off of any soils.

Plant when the site is at its most moist.

 More mulches after the plantings - top them up., and keep it up.....

 

Uh - this is a  ' Hostile' site - be patient.  

 

 

 

 

 

OrganicMan's picture

shade plants (post #17321, reply #2 of 7)

Hello Ashley,

It certainly looks like you have a very tough site there to work with.  I really hate stones for landscaping, once they're down, they are a pain to do anything with if you want a change.  I won't use them, they are durable but they can get dirty and cluttered and even weedy so you still have to do some maintenance on them to keep them looking fresh.

But what to do now. Three plants that come to mind for me are: hostas, ferns and vinca minor (periwinkle). There are really large selections to pick from on the ferns and hostas. These would be easy to open up areas in the rock cover and plant them right in the ground. The Vinca is a low growing perennial with evergreen leaves and very pretty blue flowers, it spreads pretty easily and covers the ground. It blooms mostly in the spring but does flower occasionally throughout the summer. I have it growing in fairly dense shade under 70 year old norweigian and blue spruce trees and it does really well. It doesn't like to get too dry though.  I'm not sure how it would do on the stone. The plants would need to be rooted in the ground initially but the runners may be ably to handle taking hold in a thick layer of mulch. 

Ferns and Hostas. When I was young I really didn't care for hostas. They seemed to be a rather boring plant. But as I got older (62 now but I refuse to believe I could really be that old so soon) I started to appreciate their place in shady areas that other plants didn't do well in. That and that there have been so many new and interesting varieties developed over the years. They are hardy and require very little care. The only thing I've noticed that bothers them is slugs, slugs are especially fond of the varigated plants. 

Ferns are also a good choice for shade.  I have several varieties growing some are well behaved and stay as nice specimen plants and others tend to run under ground and pop up all over really fast. You'll have to check them out on the internet.

A couple of other plants that grow good for me in the shade are; bleeding heart (only flowers once, usually cut the plants all the way down when they start looking too ratty), the old fashioned white "snow ball" hydrangeas, solomon's seal, false solomon's seal  (a wild plant) and black cohosh (snake root) has some herbal benefits.

Well that should give you something to think about. If it were me I would probably try to remove some or all of that stone and get back to the soil. Maybe you could just move some of it around and make like pathways with it, leaving larger areas of dirt exposed and have Islands of different plants in there. That might make for a very interesting effect. The stones would help keep the plants in their areas and you would have little garden patches, or rooms,  that you could create in.

As for watering, I think a regular sprinkler in there would work OK. Or if you like soaker hoses and can keep them kind of hidden they would be more water efficient.

Mark

P.S. I live in Wisconsin, zone 4-5 and all these plants winter over just fine. 

Mark from Wis.

P.S. Keep an eye on the "fine GARDENING" mag and articles. It may just be coincidence, but I seem to notice that they get some of thier ideas for articles from these discussions between us all. ;> ) Your question may eventually be answered by them.

swmogardens's picture

In all likelyhood, the last (post #17321, reply #3 of 7)

In all likelyhood, the last owner could not get anything to grow there and put in the rock. I would put about a 3 inch layer of compost over the whole area with 3 inches of shredded pine bark mulch or pine needles over the compost. This fall, plant A LOT of Vinca minor plugs,or Big blue Liriope. Either one will cover the ground within a couple of seasons. Then next spring, start a hosta collection in this area. It will be beautiful as early as the following year.

God talked with man in Eden's shade. Christ sought a garden when He prayed.
OrganicMan's picture

Good Idea (post #17321, reply #5 of 7)

I think your plan is a good one. The soil is probably bad under that rock and would take a lot of compost and mulch to make it work any way. I say "Go for it!!" Just watch that it doesn't dry out, and with all that compost and mulch it should hold water just fine.

15 The LORD God took the man and put him in the Garden of Eden to work it and take care of it. Genesis 2:15.

But then Man screwed up and:

17 To Adam he said,....  "Cursed is the ground because of you;
       through painful toil you will eat of it
       all the days of your life.   Gen 3:17

And that is why we work so hard at our gardens.

We were given the wonderful task of taking care of the Garden, and even with the curse on us, we still try to do the very first thing that God wanted us to do, take care of the garden. Or what's left of it that we haven't destroyed.

Mark from Wis.

P.S. Keep an eye on the "fine GARDENING" mag and articles. It may just be coincidence, but I seem to notice that they get some of thier ideas for articles from these discussions between us all. ;> ) Your question may eventually be answered by them.

Noel-in-England's picture

Eden. (post #17321, reply #4 of 7)

Just.......KEEP  AWAY  from ' those '  Apples.....and you will be o.k.

leonap's picture

periwinkle (post #17321, reply #6 of 7)

I would highly recommend periwinkle, aka vinca. I have had much quicker coverage with the large-leaved varieties, particularly the darker green with gold variagation. The periwinkle blue flowers in the spring are quite lovely and as someone said they will flower sporadically throughout the summer.


Here is a method for you to consider: Buy a flat of periwinkle plugs or whatever plant you choose. (Liriope would also be good or large sweeps of both.) Remove rocks in a spot 5" or so in diameter and plant a plug in this bare spot. Now do this in staggered rows with the plants spaced an equal distance apart. The closer spaced they are, the quicker they will form a solid mat obviously. In your zone 7, planting this fall would be ideal. Plan to keep it watered regularly the first year. Next summer you may want to remove a few more rocks in between the plants to make it easier for the new growth to send down roots into new soil.

I started with a small pot my old neighbor shared with me. I had complete coverage of a bank that is roughly 12' x 12' in about 3-4 years in my supposed zone 6 garden. Yours should grow even faster. Alas, I used to live in zone 7. It can and will try to go further than you might want it to eventually but it is fairly easy to pull up any unwanted sections. Best of luck!

Chops's picture

here's what I did... (post #17321, reply #7 of 7)

I live in the Catskill Mountain Region of Upstate New York, where the soil is very rocky, and mostly clay.  I've got a portion of the land with this soil situation, but also a significant slope (moreso than what your pix indicate).  My solution was to dig eight or nine holes about 18 inches deep and about 24 inches in diameter, toss the bad "soil", and replace it with a mix of peat moss, good potting soil, well - rotted manure, some all purpose fertilizer and water each hole thoroughly.  Then I bought a bunch of catoneasters.  These are beautiful plants that are covered with gorgeous small white flowers in Spring, hardy and lovely small green leaves on trailing branches in Summer (that I've kept trimmed at the edges of the garden area to give it a very neat and tidy look), and then in the Fall, the plants are covered with pumpkin-orange berries. (there are other varieties that have slightly different colored berries and I've taken advantage of that difference to increase the color variation in the garden as well as to extend the blooming and fruiting periods as different varieties perform at slightly different times over the year.)  I believe the plants are ever-green, although where I am, it's a moot point as they are completely covered with snow from mid January to late March,....and I'm in South Florida during the seemingly endless months of winter here.)    My only concern is your mentioning that the land you are dealing with is bone dry.  That soil has to be amended somehow, and then kept mulched, to get anything to thrive there. 

  one other thing, these plants are shrubs, so they don't grow like vinca or creeping jenny, or other fast growing vines, but they do spread rather quickly (lessening the suggested spacing between plants obviously will speed up results), but the effect is just gorgeous and sophisticated, and no one will ever suspect that you are new to gardening when they fill in.

 

chops