Grafting
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I thought that some of you might be interested in propagating trees - these are apple, but the technique is exactly the same for pears - I find that some people are intimidated by the concept, but would assure anyone that the practice is very straight-forward and not particularly difficult - with apples and pears success rates are high - what follows is a synopsis of the system I've used to develope trees for my orchard -
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(post #12599, reply #1 of 25)
Equipment - clockwise from upper left -
the ugly kettle
contains a 'V-8' can with wax in a water bath, I used to purchase the high dollar 'Trowbridge' wax, but they changed the formulation such that it's not worth the premium - now I just buy wax toilet rings at the local hardware for $1.29 - never melt wax directly over heat, always in a water bath -
rubber budding strips -
elastic strips that wrap and support the graft as it knits
hand clips
- I hope I don't have to explain them -
grafting knife and sharpening stone -
the knives are somewhat special in that they are beveled on only one side - they come in R&L hand versions - a sharp edge is essential to the process -
rootstock -
this particular one is M-9, a full dwarfing root -
scion -
a dormant stick of the variety that you want - hopefully to match the diameter of the rootstock -
(post #12599, reply #2 of 25)
the first step in the process it to make an angled cut to the top of the rootstock and then a complementary cut to the bottom of the scion - sharp knife and use the strenght in your arms to pull the knife and stock apart
(post #12599, reply #3 of 25)
next is the 'backcut', on both the stock and scion; the purpose of which is to provide mechanical support between the stock and scion while they knit -
(post #12599, reply #4 of 25)
after the knife work is complete, take the snips and cut the scion to length with a bud near the top of the cut - here's the pieces ready to be locked together -
(post #12599, reply #5 of 25)
now the pieces are pushed together such that the 'tounges' interlock - the key to success is at this step - the cuts don't have to match perfectly, the stock and scion don't have to be the same size, there can be a lot of 'ugly' about it,
IF the cambium matches over at least a third of the cut -
how to do this? - look at the close-up of the cuts again - there is the outer bark, a light green layer of signifigant thickness, and a dark line that separates the light green from the darker green center of the wood -
the dark line is where the action is -
this is what you seek to match betweent the stock and scion - do not 'split the difference' if there is size difference between stock and scion - match on one side (the side that the bud at the top is on, BTW)
(post #12599, reply #6 of 25)
next the graft is wrapped - I prefer these rubber budding strips, (all this equipment is availible at http://www.amleo.com and other suppliers) I've seen people just cut rubber bands and use them, athletic tape will work - after growth commences, make sure that what is used doesn't girdle the tree -
(post #12599, reply #7 of 25)
then the graft it dipped in the molten wax - this keeps the scion from drying out while the tree knits -
(post #12599, reply #8 of 25)
the finished tree - usually I heel in bundles of ten and don't pot till spring - I raise the trees in gallon pots and plant out in late summer or fall -
(post #12599, reply #9 of 25)
Well, that went fairly well - only one delete - so here's a bonus course if any of you want to amaze and astound your friends - dad was maintaining some rootstocks in pots last summer and they are rather big - I'm going to use a couple of them to try to have potted trees with apples on them - the key to making this work is to graft on 2 year old wood that has flower buds on it - it is necessary to get a good match in diameters so that there is not much shock to the fruiting branch - here is what this fruiting wood looks like - can you see the bloom buds?
(post #12599, reply #10 of 25)
the cut is prepared just like the previous example -
(post #12599, reply #11 of 25)
I wrap this with grafting tape because it provides more support - these will be fragile till july or so - if I get a take and set fruit I'll stake it - suppose I could do it now -
(post #12599, reply #12 of 25)
the completed tree - I'll hold this in a cool place and try not to let it get ahead of the trees in the field - this is GoldRush, which is a late variety that hangs well, so if it works it'll be around for the whole season - I've done this twice before, it's not really good for much other than conversation, but you people with very limited space CAN be fruit growers too!
(post #12599, reply #13 of 25)
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What a great pictoral directory! THanks for taking the time to post this, I have really enjoyed looking over it. Would I be correct in assuming that you use the same technique for other grafted plants, like camellias?
(post #12599, reply #14 of 25)
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Taunton ought to give you article space.
(post #12599, reply #15 of 25)
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Rosebud, I was wondering the same thing. Ruth, this thread will need to go in the permanent reference folder (after we all get done reading and asking questions).
(post #12599, reply #16 of 25)
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Ok, so we're all chipping in for Dave to come to the fest to do a hands on workshop, right?
(post #12599, reply #17 of 25)
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Thanks for the lesson David--I have a root stock that is 3 years old and have been meaning to graft an apple to it--but have quite gotten there yet. This year I may try to graft 3 or more grafts to it. is there a better time of year to do grafting?
(post #12599, reply #18 of 25)
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Hullo, Rosebud - you're welcome - your question about camellias sent me to the shelf reference of 'Hartman and Kester' - they talk about camellia as 'hard to graft' and suggest using an 'approach graft', where the stock in a pot is brought to a large plant of desirable variety, a cut is made in both the stock and a similar size branch of the variety such that they 'kiss' (my word), and are secured tightly together, left several weeks, and then the top is cut from the stock and the limb from the variety to develope the plant - I know that's rather unclear, if I had a scanner, it would save a thousand words - and also, sometimes the plants don't read the book - if I had the plant material handy (the scion must be dormant), I wouldn't hesitate to make a couple of whip and tongue grafts - might get lucky - DOUD
(post #12599, reply #19 of 25)
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Hi Creta, I hope you have luck with your grafting - to use the technique per above, you have to have dormant scionwood - so you need to collect it soon, place in plastic with damp (not soaking) towel, and into refridgeration (not with fruit) - if the stock is established outside, wait until the threat of freezing temps have past and do your grafting then - there are also techniques for propagation in the summertime in case any of your grafts should fail - if the stars align correctly this summer I'll post another thread on those techniques -
are you planning to make three grafts of the same variety, or multible varieties on the same tree? - -
(post #12599, reply #20 of 25)
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Thanks David--I want to make 3 grafts of multiple varieties.
(post #12599, reply #21 of 25)
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Thank you David, your explanation and photos give me a much clearer idea of what I want to do. This year I hope to take the time to make a complete graft or two, start to finish.
(post #12599, reply #22 of 25)
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Thanks for posting all this, David. I am going to try to save the photos, so this thread can live again Over the Fence. By posting this message, I am saving it from imminent shelving in the archives.
(post #12599, reply #23 of 25)
Very nice how-to David. If I was able to graft successfully, I think I'd be tempted to go overboard and see how many different varieties I could get off one tree ;)
jt8
jt8
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg
(post #12599, reply #24 of 25)
John, you're in BossHog country? Good to see you here. Did you make it to Doud's Fest? I emailed Doud to get his take on planting vine fruits in Indiana but I prolly cought him in mid harvest or maybe the email addie I used wasn't current. That beautiful tutorial of his is several years old. You should give it a try. You couldn't go wrong with Doud's directions.
BJ
(post #12599, reply #25 of 25)
I sat on the fence too long and missed Doud's get together. Been wishing I'd gone every since. Work is work and it always waits. Gotta take those breaks
[edit to add] 'bout 45 mins away from Boss
jt8
Edited 10/26/2008 1:44 am by JohnT8
jt8
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg