Immunox on cherries

etherhuffer's picture

I would like to use Immunox on my cherries for brown rot. Any advice?

 

KimmSr's picture

(post #12698, reply #1 of 11)

What does the label say about using Imminox for this? Nothing I have seen, yet, says that Immunox is effective for brown rot.


What does your states USDA Cooperative Extension Service say about brown rot control? 


West central Michigan along the lake shore


A sign of a good gardener is not a green thumb, rather it is brown knees.

West central Michigan along the lake shore

A sign of a good gardener is not a green thumb, rather it is brown knees.

DavidxDoud's picture

(post #12698, reply #2 of 11)

I would like to use Immunox on my cherries for brown rot. Any advice?


first line of defense is sanitation - removal of mummies both on the tree and on the ground - brown rot is non-species specific - meaning if there are alternate hosts in the area,  inoculum levels will be high -


so,  you're gonna spray -


start early - if you've had problems,  inoculum resides on/in twigs,  buds, fruit mummies, even within woody tissue - so start with a dormant spray - a copper containing spray is a nice broad spectrum fungicide,  but must be applied before bud break -


I googled 'Immunox' and Spectracide doesn't advertize the active ingredients - some secondary sources suggest to me the AI is a sterol inhibitor - a relatively modern chemistry - quite safe to humans/animals,  effective at very low rates, and has 'curative' properties,  in that it can be applied after an infection period (an combination of time,  temperature, and inoculum that will result in a disease infection) and prevent/arrest the development of the disease (up to a point - 48 hrs from the start of the infection period is a common figure)


the down side is that the chemistry of action is quite specific and is fairly readily overcome by the brown rot organism - a couple of years of application and likely that 'miracle' chemical will no longer be effective -


so - rotate - maybe 3-4 applications a year,  alternated with an equal or greater number of applications of a non related chemistry - captan has three separate modes of action, non of which is related to the SI mode - - of course selection pressure is minimized if your crop is kept 'clean' rather than trying to gain control over a rampant infection -


coverage - if you're gonna spray, do a good job - an effective dose of chemical must reach every surface of plant -


timing - keep things on a preventative schedule - much better to spray three days before the rain,  than a day after -


"won't it wash off?" well,  SI's are locally systemic and won't wash off,  as a matter of fact - chems like captan will indeed weather,  but similar to a condom,  it needs to be in place at the critical moment -


good luck -


 


 


"there's enough for everyone"
"there's enough for everyone"
etherhuffer's picture

(post #12698, reply #3 of 11)

Very good advice. I have a BS in microbiology, but plant biology is different.  I have been working the copper whenever its dry. By switching back and forth you get a better effect. I would like to know about the captans as they seem to be oft recommended. I remember in chem class that they stink real good!


I have also been hitting the property with simple sulfer antifungals to root out other reservoirs and generally reduce the load on the property. But warm wet weather is tough......


 

Karen's picture

(post #12698, reply #4 of 11)

I found the MSDS for Immunox. The link is a pain because they show the data in a very, very small window on the web page, but it lists the active ingredients as Myclobutanil (1.55%) (there's your sterol inhibitor) and 2-butoxyethanol (7%). http://www.spectracide.com/ProductCategories/RoseAndFlowerCare/SpectracideImmunox/MSDS/default.htm

(I had to look up what the mummies are. Sounds like it could be a big job to clear them out.)

North Carolina - zone 7

North Carolina - zone 7

DavidxDoud's picture

(post #12698, reply #5 of 11)

thanks,  that's interesting,  especially the 2-butoxyethanol which I didn't recoginize - and after investigating,  I'm not sure why it's in there - here's a link to wiki - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-Butoxyethanol it's listed as a solvent,  which I'd believe,  but why it's listed as an active ingredient I'm not sure - one interesting sentence from wiki - "It also seems to be excellent at killing most insects and arachnids." fine,  but I don't think it's labeled as an insecticide -


there ya go -


I really wish that the small scale grower had access to regular formulations of pest controls - I browse the chem shelves occasionally out of curiosity, and I don't see good tools for the homeowner - almost always mixtures, many of which make no sense to me,  rates and concentrations that ....


well,  it's all about making money,  I guess -


 


 


"there's enough for everyone"
"there's enough for everyone"
Blissfull Gardener's picture

(post #12698, reply #6 of 11)

"well,  it's all about making money,  I guess - ."


I have a few fruit trees I my yard that I planted a few years ago, and would very much like to know how I can take care of them so I will get a good bounty( I plan on selling the fruit). What types of products (chemicals) are available to the larger growers that aren't to small scale growers? And why aren't they? In your opinion what would be the best brands? I have a lot of praying mantises and ladybugs on the property, I wouldn't want to hurt them nor the worms. Thanks!


“Give fools their gold, and knaves their power; let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall,


Who sows a field, or trains a flower, or plants a tree , is more  than all”


~John Greenleaf Whittier

“Give fools their gold, and knaves their power; let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Who sows a field, or trains a flower, or plants a tree , is more  than all”

~John Greenleaf Whittier

DavidxDoud's picture

(post #12698, reply #7 of 11)

Blissfull, here's a link - http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/hort.htm ,  scroll about halfway down to 'Fruit' - there are several free PDF downloads about several types of fruit - go ahead and pick one that interests you, review it, and if you have questions, post back and we can discuss - I see you are in Ohio, so the information should be valid for your area  -


I'll try this...


Order Price
Item Number
Title
PDF version

Web Only
BP-1-W
Fruit Diseases: Apple Scab on the Tree Fruit in the Home Orchard
PDF

Web Only
BP-30-W

Fruit Diseases: Fire Blight on Fruit Trees in the Home Orchard


PDF

Web Only
BP-45-W
Fruit Diseases: Brown Rot on Tree Fruit in the Home Orchard
PDF

Web Only
BP-132-W
Fruit Diseases: Disease Susceptibility of Common Apple Cultivars
PDF

Web Only 
HO-9-W
Growing Cherries in Indiana
PDF

Web Only
HO-17-W
Currants and Gooseberries
PDF

Web Only
HO-44-W
Raspberries
PDF

Web Only
HO-45-W
Growing Grapes
PDF

Web Only
HO-46-W
Growing Strawberries
PDF

Web Only
HO-65-W
Fertilizing Blueberries
PDF

Web Only
HO-95-W
Home Storage of Apples
PDF

Web Only
HO-108-W
Persimmons
PDF

Web Only
HO-109-W
Fertilizing Fruit in Small Areas
PDF

Web Only
HO-121-W
Fertilizing Small Fruits
PDF

Web Only
HO-125-W
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
PDF

Web Only
HO-165-W
Apple Cultivars for Indiana
PDF

Web Only
HO-190-W

Fruits and Nuts for Edible Landscaping


PDF

Web Only

HO-220-W
Growing Pawpaws
PDF

Web Only

HO-221-W
Grape Varieties for Indiana
PDF

$3.00
ID-146
Controlling Pests in Home Fruit Plantings
PDF

$6.00

ID-169
Midwest Commercial Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide 2007
PDF


"there's enough for everyone"
"there's enough for everyone"
Blissfull Gardener's picture

(post #12698, reply #8 of 11)

My Goodness! I can't hardly believe my good fortune of your wonderful & helpful reply! As I have a good variety of plants, these PDF's are going to help me in a big way. I have tried searching before at the OSU site and for some reason I couldn't get the same info you got. I am just tickled! Thank sooo much! You...are a Gem!!!

“Give fools their gold, and knaves their power; let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall,


Who sows a field, or trains a flower, or plants a tree , is more  than all”


~John Greenleaf Whittier

“Give fools their gold, and knaves their power; let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Who sows a field, or trains a flower, or plants a tree , is more  than all”

~John Greenleaf Whittier

etherhuffer's picture

(post #12698, reply #9 of 11)

Hey! I am back to report. I used copper on my tart cherry(bordeaux mix) in the late winter, and switched to immunox when it warmed up. So far, no sap leakage and the blooms and foliage look much better.


I also hit the majority of my property with immunox, and surprise! A whole lot of the the stuff perked up. It looks like we are so damp here that I just can't miss a year on treatment. The irises are better, the asarum caudautum ground cover took off, the nandina is going gangbusters. I think mildew and rot in Seattle are just part of the plan.


 

the country gardener's picture

(post #12698, reply #10 of 11)

EH -


ah, yes, the Northwest, where moss grows on all sides of the trees, making navigation impossible! They promised us a partly cloudy day today, but I'm here at the computer because it's still raining outside.  Don't fret, July is just around the corner, then we can finally dry out!


Marty


"The plants have been good to us."  Lester Hawkins

Marty

"The plants have been good to us."  Lester Hawkins

DavidxDoud's picture

(post #12698, reply #11 of 11)

keep after the cherries - but rotate chemicals -


enjoy the year -


 


 


"there's enough for everyone"
"there's enough for everyone"